Delpozo’s runway shows — magical, emotional, transportive — are a hot ticket on the New York Fashion Week circuit. Fall was no exception. A confluence of themes informed Josep Font’s latest collection, a dreamy lineup that fused futurism with artful romance. The former aesthetic, delivered mostly through voluminous, couturelike silhouettes, was derived from “Metropolis,” the 1927 silent film by the Austrian-German expressionist Fritz Lang, whose sci-fi drama tells of a dark, futuristic, urban dystopia. Yet a soft ethereality ran simultaneously throughout, as Font referenced the illustrations of Italian digital artist Daria Petrilli, whose surrealist works depict seductive Victorian-era women in nature.
Nodding to the industrial and Art Deco-style sets in “Metropolis” — Font’s first career, after all, was as an architect — the lineup’s sculptural, geometric silhouettes floated away from the body with exaggerated volume, conveying power and drama. Shoulders were a focal point, either left bare — as in the cutouts on a prim, violet-collared minidress — or covered up with rounded wool coats and capes cut with generous cropped sleeves.
Font’s palette played metallics and vibrant primary colors against muted pastels and neutrals in contrasting fabrics: structured satins, jacquards and wools versus feather-light silks and chiffons. The magic was in the embellishment: Sculpted bows elevated a simple cotton shirt, while floral-embroidered paillettes made every look bloom — as did leather evening gloves covered in 3-D appliqués. An oversize cape with a gigantic shoulder bow, done in pale pink and black spotted silk jacquard and velvet, fused Font’s opposing themes in one big, beguiling statement. And all of it exemplified the house’s impeccable craftsmanship.
The standout evening look — a red chiffon skirt layered over a crackle-metallic trouser with a sheer-embroidered sleeveless blouse — felt effortlessly modern and suited to a daring, thoughtful red carpet starlet. At its core, Font’s collection had some easily translatable daywear — tailored suiting, inventive knits, derby platforms and chic mini handbags — though one must wonder if the rest of the lineup will have the same commercial appeal. Gorgeous as they are, these are fairytale clothes for fairytale lives.