Derek Lam appears to have his act together. Two years ago, Sandbridge Capital bought a minority stake in his company, and Lam took the investment, put his head down and turned out a string of excellent collections that would seem to occupy a sweet spot in luxury fashion: The clothes are beautiful, distinct and not overexposed. Sounds like a fatigued luxury consumer’s — and retailer’s — delight.

 

Fall was a win. Lam’s show notes named Alexander Calder, Richard Avedon and Penelope Tree as references for his collection of “form, balance and joy.” A whiff of Sixties and Seventies came through in the shrunken curves of a navy crepe pea jacket with fur pockets and cropped, gently flared pants, and a belted white poplin shirtdress based on an austere, high-necked Victorian blouse — but the overall impression was one of deluxe modern classicism.

 

Graphic motifs, strong color and clean, calm romance existed in equilibrium in a run of show that was consistent but never repetitious. A mauve double-face wool duffle coat with horn-shaped toggles over cream wide-leg double wool trousers was softly sporty. A patchwork, abstracted plaid calf-hair coat with a fur collar over a ribbed sweater and A-line cognac leather skirt used extravagant materials in a chic, sensible way. Two long-sleeve, beaded crochet dresses — one in cobalt with a high neck; the other with a deep V, layered over a ribbed, ruffled turtleneck — were made for unfussy evening elegance. Lam deserved extra credit for the entire range of boots and booties, crafted from leathers in offbeat classic colors.

By  on February 14, 2016

Derek Lam appears to have his act together. Two years ago, Sandbridge Capital bought a minority stake in his company, and Lam took the investment, put his head down and turned out a string of excellent collections that would seem to occupy a sweet spot in luxury fashion: The clothes are beautiful, distinct and not overexposed. Sounds like a fatigued luxury consumer’s — and retailer’s — delight.

 

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