Dion Lee’s sculptural lineup took its cues from the late German artist Otto Piene, founder of the Zero art movement. In a nod to his works, Lee’s voluminous knits, outerwear and power suiting — categories he’s amped up considerably since his recent pre-fall collection — took on a circular motif with silver “piercing” hardware and rounded shoulders and hemlines, with many looks falling away from the body. Piene was known for his light-based sculptural pieces, and Lee’s wool coats came with perforations to evoke the appearance of backlighting.
The designer also explored the tension between utility and decoration: Nylon army parkas were paired with metallic pleated dresses for a feminine street vibe. The lineup’s embellished finale looks featured silver and brown “baked” sequins that caught the light beautifully as the models walked, giving his dresses a cool, distorted textural element.