A year after her launch, Gabriela Hearst’s heels are firmly dug in (on the double-welted soles of her equestrian-inspired shoe collection). Her fall presentation included several new developments, including its setting — Hearst’s new offices in Chelsea — her first handbag (a very chic small, top-handled pouch style with an interesting closure), and chunky tweeds made with wool from her family’s ranch in Uruguay, which she set to the highest standard. “I sent the [wool for the] tweeds to Scotland and to Uruguay because I wanted to see which was the best,” said the designer, whose homeland ended up with the advantage.
Hearst pushed her elegantly grounded luxury aesthetic through color and texture. Patterns, such as a shearling cape in a geometric motif and multicolored blanket-stripe coats with shearling trim, were bold and playful. Meanwhile, her use of dot-and-dash embroidered trims, which were actually Morse code for “love,” were delicate and clever, likewise a few two-for-one reversible items, including a tailored herringbone coat and a wool blazer that reversed to nylon. “See? It’s practical,” she said, modeling the blazer. “I get a geeky satisfaction out of it.”