Remember power dressing — all sharp tailoring and pulsing with confidence? For fall Narciso Rodriguez offered a chic update, loosening the structure while retaining the authoritative air. It was, he said backstage, “a very New York City kind of collection — very urban.”
If by urban he meant clothes both practical and smart — check and check. And beautiful, too, as he focused less on the exacting tailoring he loves and more on eased-up silhouettes. There was a casual swagger to the clothes, and a vague nod to Eighties’ scale in the outerwear. Rodriguez opened with a white crinkled wool coat with a huge, off-kilter collar, which set the tone for three of the collection’s key elements: texture, volume, asymmetry. In addition to the plissé, he worked with a precision grid in laminated matelassé for a dress and coat, and a reverse-wool jacquard that created a large tone-on-tone block pattern for a big, unstructured coat and a more fitted jacket.
Rodriguez has long believed in the allure of a good dress. His looked easy but interesting as he made liberal use of bias cuts and asymmetry, constructing unfussy tiers via angular seaming, and turning necklines and hems slightly askew. He went for subtle contrast with layered tank dresses, and a black underpinning just peeking out from white wool crepe, and black from brown suede. The overall effect was of polished, street-smart currency.