A raw industrial space set with slick lighting; a stirring live percussionist performance by Mauro Refosco and Joey Waronker from Atoms for Peace; the scent of free truffle popcorn in the air. David Neville and Marcus Wainwright conveyed the atmosphere and energy they were after with their fall show: branded, glossy downtown grit with a fast “f–k you attitude,” as Wainwright called it backstage before the show.
It’s imperative to a brand positioned like Rag & Bone, as offering elevated accessibility, to sample current trends, remix them in the label’s language and push forward a degree or two — but not too much. In that respect, Neville and Wainwright know their roles. The look they presented for fall appropriated skate/street athletic wear, moto racing, and fashionably rugged outdoorsy-ness, while a focus on cool, straight-leg denim and English tailoring brought it home for Rag & Bone. The styling was carefully contrived to be casual and unaffected, even though those are conflicting ideas. Yet it worked.
One of the best looks was Binx Walton in a short, beige shearling jacket that brought to mind a Patagonia fleece over a red-and-black micro-check wool shirttail skirt and leather pants. Straight-leg, indigo Japanese selvage denim jeans with a trompe l’oeil cuff was the right direction for the label’s denim statement. The plethora of track pants with white stripes made the streetwear point, if in a rather obvious way. But for some reason, the tracksuit effect felt less on the nose on a shiny fleece moto hoodie over a windowpane-check wool skirt.