On Monday morning, Tessa Matthias introduced her ambitious collection Tessa to editors and buyers via private appointment at a lofty apartment on Bleecker Street in New York City. The lineup — made in New York and Los Angeles with mostly French and Italian fabrics — is composed of a gorgeous selection of dresses, jumpsuits, T-shirts, outerwear and tailored separates. A wool blanket featuring a cheetah intarsia teased a collection of textiles and home goods, which she plans to build on for next season. “It’s always been my plan,” she said of the launch.
Matthias, 28, spent the past four years at Theory, where she was senior designer of the label’s activewear and sporty apparel line Theory+ before leaving the company last summer. The initial concept for Tessa was based on her obsession with trousers. “I always want the perfect pant in different fabrics,” she said. There were five styles for fall, including wide-leg silk and wool drawstring styles, a midrise boot-cut flare and a trouser with a sexy cut-out detail at the hip. To wear on top, there were casual raw-edged T-shirts and cutout crewneck sweatshirts, as well as strapless leather bustiers and elongated blazers with lace-up details and a nipped waist. Press notes cited nature and the environment as overarching inspirations; a pair of colorful duck- and floral-printed suits were inspired by her Australian mother.