Amy Smilovic borrowed from the boys in her latest Tibi collection, which emphasized strength and ease. The inclusion of a few male models on her runway drove the point home. “It just felt really natural,” she said of the casting. “The way a woman wears a guy’s jeans — a guy can wear a woman’s, too.”

 

Smilovic’s oversize wool suiting certainly had a cool, androgynous appeal. She also played with length and proportion, exemplified in the dominant pant silhouette for the season: a roomy, wide-leg cargo trouser. “It was about things that you swim in, and that still feel feminine,” she said.

 

A few looks nodded to military styles, most notably a series of navy and Army green tailored coats decked out with gold buttons and red trim. Rendered in a natural palette inspired by the paintings of American figurative painter George Tooker, fall fabrics included a mish-mash of velvet, mohair, metallic lurex and sequined knits. Liquid silk slipdresses and sheer lace blouses made it all effortlessly sensual.

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