Pookie and Louisa Burch are up to something interesting at Trademark. They have been from the beginning, working from an aesthetic point of view that’s distinct yet difficult to nail down, a curious combination of preppy conservative and kooky world traveler. There’s personality and potential there and the Burches are tapping into it nicely.
For fall, they worked with a grab bag of references — the American West, Peter Max’s 1971 “Superposter Book,” Robert Morris sculptures and J. Press. The takeaway was a vibrant collection with increased focus on a polished, handcrafted look delivered with bold new California shearlings, such as an orange coat. There were Bolivian-made macramé pieces and candy-colored sweaters from Scotland based on classic J. Press prepster styles.
“It was about novelty and each item being really special,” said Pookie, noting the Arts and Crafts movement was a big influence. It yielded some of the collection’s best pieces, including shimmery ribbed knits with contrast piping, a quilted satin trench, and a pink charmeuse slipdress with floral embroidery. The latter introduced a softer, more sensual idea for Trademark, which tends toward modesty. Also worth noting was the jewelry, which has been strong in the past and was again here with a range of pieces made out of bent spoons and other silverware.