For fall, Yeohlee Teng brought back two important things for her Yeohlee label: a strong showing of coats, which had often been her signature, and a collection of 14 disparate pieces that still felt like a collection.

 

Teng is a designer who continues to surprise with her seemingly endless new ways of cutting and detailing her clothes. This season that included a taupe wool and angora coat with navy inset side panels that moved seamlessly into large front squares, shown over a crisp white shirt and black-and-gray sarong. Teng also showed her coats over cropped pants or cleverly constructed dresses.

 

Yet it was the sarong that she played with quite effectively, turning it upside down for a subtle bubble effect or cutting it as a swingy, black-and-gray wool dress with a tie near the hem. Her lineup also included terrific coats with curved backs that move into capelike sleeves and a rakish tuxedo with a cropped front and long tail, worn over flannel tuxedo pants. This small collection beautifully telegraphed Teng’s multifaceted big ideas.

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