The best thing about Acne Studios’ fall show was seeing Arizona Muse back on a Paris runway. Too bad the feline beauty, hair matted to her head, had to wear a lumpy red leather jumpsuit. If she doesn’t look good in it, who will?
Once again, creative director Jonny Johansson let his conceptual leanings get the better of him, citing garage punk band The Cramps as his inspiration, namely bandmates Poison Ivy and Lux Interior. Ballooning pants and globs of quilting around the shoulders bordered on clownish — far from the effortlessly cool clothes this Swedish brand ships to its growing network of retail stores.
So one had to look hard for things one might see-now-buy-later.
Underneath the wire cages clamped to waists and bosoms were handsome and roomy overcoats in mannish wools or cement-colored vinyl. Metal snaps were a cool detail studding demonstrative collars and the sleeves of a striped, iridescent tunic. The cartoonish animal prints, rendered in primary colors, had a kooky charm as a patchwork coat or a sleeveless top.
And if you missed Lee Alexander McQueen’s bumsters the first time around, here’s your chance.