Alexandre Vauthier is a champion of fashion democracy. What he offers to his tony couture clients he also wants to make available to less well-heeled fans of his sharp, seductive look. Rendering his couture collections in more affordable fabrics has become a mantra for the designer’s ready-to-wear, and this season was no different.
January’s lipstick-red patent leather jumpsuit, for one, reemerged in double-face lamé satin for fall straight out of Abraham, high fashion’s go-to textile-maker, while the couture show’s racy plissé numbers retained their quality even though the pleats were laid by a machine instead of a human hand. “I promise you, they will stay in place forever,” assured Vauthier. One ensemble of a pleated full skirt and matching tank top was particularly striking, in thick, metallic-coated Japanese jersey.
In the outerwear department, military ruled. Next to cropped bombardier jackets and full-body coats, Vauthier also served up a sleeveless uniform number, which — when matched with an ultraheavy knit and brazen mini — offered a reassuring balance between street and sex appeal.