Anne Sofie Madsen likes to gather and reassemble scraps of contrasting fabrics into garments that elude precise description. For example, she embellished a sleeveless top with panels of fabric that flew off like a cape on one side, and hinted at a tailored jacket on the other. Elsewhere, she uploaded a heavily ruffled negligee as well as a multilayered peplum onto a sleek, checkered crewneck top. Such pileups were often overwhelming — and at times comical.


Madsen was at her best when she kept her exuberance in check, as seen on an oversize leather jacket amped up with cord and fur details, which she cleverly styled with a nude draped dress for contrast. The designer’s knack for fabric manipulation also came through via a hooded sweatshirt whose front boasted an impeccable piece of tapestry.