Midi skirts — a key trend this European fashion season — just got an endorsement from the master of minis and thigh boots. “I’m tired of short,” Fausto Puglisi said backstage at Emanuel Ungaro, calling the neither-here-nor-there length “very sexy.”


He certainly tszujed them up, employing leopard-print silk, lamé, lacquered lace and Klimt-esque brocades. This was a safe and solid Ungaro collection, with light helpings of Fausto fierceness.


The designer seems to be in a commercial state of mind, bypassing the collection’s Eighties and Art Deco references on the mood board to talk about a wardrobe of “easy-to-wear” pieces. Indeed, padded blousons, sweaters with silk sleeves and black lace sheath dresses are among the items hip girls will go for. Culottes and enveloping coats in bold Prince of Wales checks were less convincing.


There was a perfume of Paul Poiret in the kimono coats in gleaming brocades and the vaguely oriental prints. But the florals were pure Ungaro, and looked surprising at home banded with Guipure lace in fit-and-flare dresses.