Adam Andrascik is taking a stand against the streetwear spirit that’s populating the Paris catwalks. His fall collection for Guy Laroche was an ode to old-school tailoring, inspired by the founder’s approach to volume: Think peplums, sack skirts and sculptural sleeves.

 

“I felt that in the past couple of seasons in fashion in general, maybe even more in Paris, there is this idea about layering that seemed to be pushing to the forefront, and I really wanted to try and build a silhouette this season that you didn’t need 15 garments to do,” the designer said backstage.

 

“I want it to be more striking and more direct and more distinct,” he added.

 

To that end, Andrascik stuck to a palette of black, cream and gray, sprinkling in hand-painted copper motifs and bead embroideries inspired by Flemish Primitive painters. He worked a high-waisted silhouette, with peplums that darted out at rib-level and double-layered skirts with elasticated waists and hems.

 

Though there were some interesting ideas in the mix, it was hard to imagine who would wear these formal creations, and even harder to square them with the kind of streetwise looks that Andrascik used to produce for his now-defunct London label. A cropped version of the aviator jacket, with statement bouffant sleeves, hinted at the direction he should be developing at Laroche.