Bill Gaytten’s contrast of embellished military outerwear and feminine, bias-cut dresses was a good fit for John Galliano’s repositioning as a contemporary label. The combination of pretty dresses, sharply tailored jackets and sporty flat sneaker-booties followed the contemporary crowd-pleasing formula.


Admirals’ jackets came in navy and loden green, some cut tautly Edwardian with polished military decorations or slightly oversize and mannish. Gaytten gussied them up in jacquard and layered them over tie-neck blouses and cropped pants for a modern, tomboy dandy feel. The dresses — delicate slips and Josephine styles — done in Chantilly and guipure lace in shades of white, ice blue and baby pink, offered a sophisticated version of eveningwear romance that feels underrepresented in the widely street-driven contemporary sector.


The label also revealed plans to open a new store at 30 Rue des Archives in the Marais designed by architect Franklin Azzi and Atelier Franck Durand, which handled the label’s redesigned logo last year as well as the spring campaign featuring Christy Turlington shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Meanwhile, the Galliano store at 336 Rue Saint-Honoré is undergoing a redesign to correspond with the new retail concept developed by Durand.