Where in the world was the Kenzo girl this season? Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s around-the-globe approach to the house found their muse traveling back in time to the Victorian era and forward again through the Seventies and Eighties with pit stops in Japan and the Kenzo print archive. She took a slight detour through Vetements weirdo bourgeois breeding grounds before compiling all her periodic and destination souvenirs into a fashion explosion that felt very of the moment. In fact, she probably didn’t have to actually go anywhere. In 2016, every far-flung fashion reference is yours for the appropriating via a quick Google search.
It was a bold, energetic collection, every look a try-anything-once outfit for the die-hard fashion lover. “She tackles every adventure with an open mind and with respect for where she has previously tread,” read the show notes. The first handful of navy and gray tailored duffle coats with abstracted sailor details were sedate compared to what followed. A long navy Victorian nightshirt dress with a high ruffled collar, smocked bodice and empire waist was layered over a white shirt with exaggerated ruffled sleeves. Similar shirts with giant ruffs and cuffs were done in plaid and layered under a tiger print cropped top or a tailored gray dress embellished with purple irises, like a funhouse version of a schoolgirl uniform.
Rococo ugly/pretty for the high-speed, Internet generation, everything on display was amplified with the kind of sensory glut available online. There was a purple faux astrakhan Sixties jacket with a tiger print collar and matching cropped pants. A soft pink, dandelion print tea dress with extralong sleeves was worn with clear plastic boots in printed pink flowers. A fitted workwear denim jacket with a sailor color emblazoned with “Kenzo” was on the collection’s conservative side, while a hot pink tiger print duffle with linebacker shoulders and tasseled toggles screamed YOLO.