Léa Peckre’s fall collection gleaned inspiration from 5 a.m., at the threshold between night and dawn, and when early birds catch the first subway of the morning.


As in the past, the designer added a subtle sensuality through tailoring by juxtaposing fabrics such as stretch tulle and vinyl.


She also played with proportions, widening trousers and cinching shirts along the sleeves and midriff, and injecting strong colors such as fuchsia or eggshell blue into the predominantly white, black and midnight blue line.


The body-conscious collection had a sporty take this season, especially with the drawstrings that abounded, snaking through ruffles and ruching on dresses, skirts and tops.


While patches reading 5 a.m. that peppered some pieces took the season’s theme too literally, they didn’t detract much from the line’s overall strength.