It was refreshing to see Martin Grant, a connoisseur of understated chic, employ bold color for fall, as in a robust satin trench coat in bright emerald green. Shine and glitter were on the table this season, such as a lacquered raffia minidresses with cheeky puffed sleeves, and a pareo gown was draped from a single piece of jacquard fabric with metallic floral designs.


Elsewhere, Lurex lent a sparkle to an oversize black-and-white tweed coat with an undulating collar, whereas a long plaid robe coat, cinched at the waist, had nothing to show for but its calm and considered shape.