There was nothing trans-seasonal about Moncler Gamme Rouge’s fall show, with its snowy runway framed by video walls of Switzerland’s highest peaks.
And there was nothing subtle about the alpine theme, from the furry lederhosen that opened the display to the troupe of burly men from Fribourg that strolled out lugging giant cowbells, producing an impressive drone of peals. The clothes were sometimes silly — did we mention the furry lederhosen? —but mostly charming.
Designer Giambattista Valli referenced national dress customs in the full-sleeved peasant blouses and the embroidered edelweiss flowers — although he bypassed dirndls in favor of pleated cheerleader miniskirts.
Even though there wasn’t a puffer jacket in sight, outerwear was the main event, including flaring car coats with furry sleeves; handsome redingotes with folkloric embroideries; and nifty sweater coats lined or trimmed with sheepskin. The colors — mostly cream with touches of red and icy blue — were beautiful.
The styling was reminiscent of Lee Alexander McQueen’s acclaimed Plato’s Atlantis collection, the models’ eyebrows bleached and their Heidi braids sometimes twisted into little horns. In lieu of armadillo boots, they wore platform clogs. Yodelayheehoo!