Pallas is a brand devoted to tuxedos, and it’s legitimate to wonder how long it will manage to keep the interest level high around one eveningwear staple and whatever goes with it, namely shirts and coats. Yet so far, designers Daniel Pallas and Véronique Bousquet have shown ingenuity in simplicity. Sharp pleats, straight lines and occasional belting are the duo’s main vocabulary.
The distinction between the brand’s spring and fall collections was minimal, but the changes were vital. Novelty came through a double-breasted mannish coat with a handsome new shoulder, cut lower than before to host a thicker winter tuxedo. Leather-thick silk-satin, a rare but appealing fabric for winter dressing, appeared on a sturdy trench and tuxedo-inspired bottoms, which ranged from high-waist full-length pants to low-waist cropped numbers. The label also stepped up its shirt production, using black, deep red or crisp white organza. And although none of this reflected the prevailing trends on or off the runways, none of it is going out of fashion anytime soon, either.