Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia charged full speed into Victoriana for fall with a Chinese twist suggestive of the Beaux Arts establishments on the Bund. The Taiwanese designer cinched many a model’s waist with a traditional corset edged with lace, worn over dresses that overflowed with frills and more lace or as an integral part of others. Pussy-bow ties also adorned her many high-necked frilly blouses.


The spider’s web was a recurrent emblem, in glittering embroideries, abundant lace details and beaded trims. Its shape was repeated in the scalloped edges of some simpler items, like a cropped red jacket cinched at the waist with a pale lace collar, or another in black jacquard with a contrasting black and white striped collar.


The overall busyness of the collection was surprisingly tempered with Asian-inspired prints and embroideries, as on a yellow tea gown or a Mao-collared print dress edged with fur. Contemporary sportswear touches saw bomber jackets in black, red or white worn over yet more ruffled skirts, quilted hoods peeping out over heavily embroidered, beaded coats and crackled leather coats giving a touch of freshness, albeit incongruous.