Directing his controlled deconstruction and raw cuts at classic English tailoring felt like a new, fresh outlet for Yang Li. His show opened strong with a brown houndstooth jacket, cut short but oversize in the sleeves and shoulder, with a fur collar over a miniskirt with the seams finished on the outside. Worn over a classic white turtleneck, it had a vaguely equestrian Sixties attitude, echoed in the curved sleeves, side zip and collar that fell in raw folds of a burgundy plaid jacket paired with toughened Chelsea boots. The mood brightened and progressed to the Eighties with a hot pink microplaid tailored coat cut big over black skinnies, and a great shrunken pink jacket with deliberately crude seams worn over high-waist wide trousers cinched with a trench belt.


Things took on a more melancholy street tone as Li ramped up the deconstruction and reconstruction with patchwork blazers, moody velvets and oversize bombers and parkas worn with plain, stripped tailored pieces.