Distorted proportions and gender-bending silhouettes ruled the runway at Glenn Martens’ spirited show for Y/Project. The Belgian designer mixed various periods and subcultures, for instance attaching 17th-century virago sleeves to hooded sweatshirts, yielding pieces “that challenge classification,” he asserted.
Indeed, it was difficult to put a name on wide, drop-crotch pants with a built-in corset that had a sailor sweater tucked into it. But then, why bother? “We are about proposing fun clothes,” was Martens’ retort in his show notes.
If some pieces looked familiar — including monster bombers with zippers meandering all over, and oversize chaps in denim or leather that segued directly from Y/Project’s men’s runway in January — they were to accentuate the brand’s unisex leanings. Amid the period references and bold mixes were some contemporary and luxurious options, including a rounded blouson which looked as if it had been entirely sewn from strips of shearling.