Yohji Yamamoto hasn’t put his Y’s collection on the runway in Paris in more than 15 years. He’s not starting up again now, but he did open his Y’s showroom to press for fall. The collection is worthy of attention — the showroom staff noted that it accounts for over 60 percent of the company’s business, and that the clothes bring Yamamoto’s principles closer to reality in execution, attitude and price.
The fall collection was beautiful, with a surprising amount of rich color delivered via the folkloric romance of florals inspired by vintage Soviet Russia, as well as artistic denim. An oversize tailored coat came in rich tapestry floral embroidery in shades of crimson, pink and black; another coat in fuzzy ivory wool was printed with pink and blue flowers and vines. A floor-grazing coat and baggy, avant overalls were done in artisanal patchworks of different washes of denim. Black gabardine anchored the collection in classic Yamamoto, but the florals and indigos enriched the lineup with a sense of romance and hand craft.