Hidenori Kumakiri has said he plans to make the leap to Paris starting next season, and for his last show in Tokyo, he created a Seventies vibe for his Beautiful People collection, calling to mind the effortless elegance of Lauren Bacall.
Using mostly neutral shades of beige, white, tan, black and navy, Kumakiri dressed his women in all manner of chic wide-leg pants, from a white open-knit pair to a fuzzy ochre version. He paired these with relaxed sweaters, long cardigans and double-breasted blazers. There were full skirts and dresses as well, falling at the calf over pumps worn with sheer socks or high-top sneakers, which lent a youthful edge.
The men’s looks were basically copies of the women, yet somehow looked less polished, making it seem as though the men’s collection had been something of an afterthought for Kumakiri.
There were little snippets of humor sprinkled throughout the show, such as patches depicting a brown bear peeking out from chest pockets, pajamalike pieces and even a robe worn open over a fuzzy pants set. But the accessory that stole the show was an adorable handbag in the form of a moto jacket wearing teddy bear, which appeared in several looks.
The bear theme continued even after the show was over, when Kumakiri came out to take his bow dressed in a bear mascot costume, after which he proceeded to rock out on guitar with his band. He finished the night with rousing “see you in Paris,” which drew big applause from the audience.