Takayuki Tanaka decided to experiment with garment construction this season. He said he was thinking about the unfinished edges of fabrics and the creases made by varying weights of different textiles.
“The power of incomplete garments, which is usually lost through the process of clothes-making,” said the designer, who took his bow with his pattern maker, Motoyuki Matsumoto.
The collection was rich, melding textured fabrics and drapery. Heavily distressed textiles were turned into big and cozy coats, a long skirt and a blazer. Skirts featured paper-bag waists employing ample quantities of material. There were also long dresses with drawstrings and folds of fabric to give them an amorphous, yet flattering shape.
There were a few misses, namely a lumpy long skirt and matching blouse in a patchwork check pattern and some dresses with awkward zippers running down the front. But outerwear was the standout category here and sometimes the simpler pieces looked the sharpest. Consider a light gray coat with a high collar and buttons diagonally down the front, or the long black coat with oversize lapels that closed the show.