At Tokyo fashion week, sometimes it is hard to detect references to trends born elsewhere. Perhaps that is because Japan is often so far ahead of the curve, or maybe the designers here are just working inside a bubble. But Dressedundressed design duo Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato managed to tap into two major directions: lingerie-themed looks and supersize outerwear.
The pair, who worked in retail before launching their own clothing brand in 2009, kicked off their show with a pair of lacy slipdresses. A couple other looks featured bras — in one instance a white one was layered over a blouse and paired with a skirt — but most of the show centered on large, long coats with extralong sleeves reminiscent of the shapes coming out of Paris-based label Vetements. A gray, belted version for her and a beige double-breasted variety for him looked particularly strong.
Kitazawa and Sato said they were out to create a collection that was playful and erotic, while also referencing a “dark side” of the human condition. That likely explains why they emblazoned quotations from Sigmund Freud across several pieces like a wrap skirt and a button-down blouse. They also said that David Lynch’s “Twin Peaks” inspired them, which makes sense as some of the voluminous outerwear in the show had something of a Nineties vibe to it.