Each of Johan Ku’s collections has been inspired by a movie, but this season was the first time it was a science-fiction flick and not an arthouse film. The designer said that, after seeing both the 1982 and 2011 versions of “The Thing,” he was driven to re-create their most striking visuals: the Antarctic snow and ice, an alien breaking out of a human body, the glowing light depicted on the original movie poster.
To invoke the glacial, Ku employed some of his signature techniques. He created a series of hand-embroidered textiles that consisted of layering different fabrics together into a kind of three-dimensional patchwork. They appeared on everything from zippered skirts and dresses to jackets and pants, which took on a futuristic look in black and silver; the all-white versions were as light and fluffy has freshly fallen snow. One blazer used a combination of two different textiles: half-white, half-gray. In addition, photos of these fabrics were printed on jersey and knit jacquards.
Exposed silver zippers decorated sleeves on an oversize coatdress (making them detachable), and created adjustable slits on a miniskirt and a calf-length pencil skirt — classic sexy silhouettes, but the gorgeous textures elevated them to something new.
Another characteristic Ku technique revived for this season was glow-in-the-dark. Many of the white pieces, as well as a mint green ribbed knit men’s sweater, turned luminous when the lights went out.
Overall, it was a strong showing that not only had a clear theme, but also demonstrated superior craftsmanship.