Streetwear with grunge and athletic influences, rich contrasting textures, bright splashes of color and exaggerated proportions dominated Keisuke Imazaki’s fall runway.
Imazaki made wide use of denim, turning out a light-washed jacket with frayed edges and jeans with buttons down the side, as well as oversize suspender pants and a jacket in a stiff, dark version of the fabric. He paired them with plaid flannel shirts and a beige sweatshirt bearing his brand’s logo.
A lot of the styling rather puzzlingly doubled down on the pieces. Models appeared wearing striped and checked culottes over jeans, a zip-up sweatshirt over a winter coat with faux-fur trim, and two pairs of slim-fitting sweatpants in olive and navy.
Some of Imazaki’s more experimental looks included two pairs of pants slashed into strips, which ballooned out before gathering just above the ankle. A pair of statement coats in wool flannel glen checks closed the show. One was voluminous and gathered, with folds of fabric joining together at the front zipper; the other was a new take on a traditional overcoat, with strips of fabric in various lengths trailing off the shoulders and back.
The designer worked with Kunio Kohzaki on headpieces that wrapped around the skull and under the chin, like multihued soft helmets.
While there were plenty of contrasting textures, from eggplant-colored faux fur to magenta nylon, overall it was a cohesive collection that would be right at home on the streets of Tokyo — at least, for the city’s sartorially adventurous men.