Dawid Tomaszewski, known for creating dreamily luxurious feminine looks, went back to his roots for a collaboration with Polish premium women’s apparel retailer Patrizia Aryton. “It’s a mix between the best pieces of Dawid Tomaszewski, and the spirit of Patrizia Aryton,” the designer said. “They have gorgeous quality cashmere, wonderful wools.” For devotees of his designs, the resulting looks had a “greatest hits” feel that wasn’t so very fresh.

Coats, always a Tomaszewski strong point, were beautiful here, color-blocked or stitched below the waist and above the hem with flowing bands of embroidery, though many featured a winter-unfriendly shoulder-to-hem back slit. Suits in bold jewel-toned velvet, raw silk and wools had cropped trousers with color-contrast inseam stripes, a Tomaszewski signature, but lacked his usually fine-tuned fit and finish. A flowing cinched gown, usually a highlight in his range, was lackluster in a drab multitoned stripe pattern.

The brand hopes to gain a toehold in Germany, and will likely find an appreciative audience at home or elsewhere with these designs. Still, the Aryton runway looks lacked the edgy energy and finesse of Tomaszewski’s own vibrant collection for fall, a selection of which was on display at the Berliner Mode Salon a day earlier.

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