Esther Perbandt has always had a dramatic side, favoring mostly black androgynous looks with deconstructionist tendencies, often presented to artistic accompaniment. This season, the designer’s presentation at Berlin’s iconic Volksbühne theatre incorporated actors, a string quartet and a revolving stage, among other special effects. But her iconoclastic design sense still shone through. The almost all-black suiting and separates for men and women were intricately draped, layered and cropped. She created fresh shapes for white shirts and jackets, pairing them with slim-fit or wide-leg short-cuffed trousers. On the more theatrical side, blazers combined wool and shaggy faux-fur for a half-man, half-monkey effect, while leather strap-cinched capes and kimono-sleeve coats sported a touch of the urban Jedi.

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