Heavy live beats and exclamations of “Watch out!” by local techno act Schwefelgelb marked Zürich-based Julia Seemann’s debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, presented by German Elle. The music was a fitting intro to a music kid meets dowdy rube hybrid.
A fresh and witty homage to the all-female Eighties gothic rock band Xmal Deutschland, Seemann styled oversize sweatshirts with quilted rhombus gilets and tartan wool scarfs that carried the band’s song titles. Pearl-studded, ruffled knits in bright red and lilac went with over-the-knee pants or jeans, leatherette color-blocked ensembles recalled Eighties tracksuits, tailored suits came in denim versions, and trenchcoats slipped off the shoulders and were tied with studded belts. And the best news: Tacky giant rhinestones just got a big-time revival.
While chasing cool during the show, the collection managed a balancing act of versatility that can create an entirely new look when styled differently.