Avant-garde Berlin designer Michael Sontag doesn’t restrict himself to following seasons or trends, allowing his women’s and — as of last June, men’s — looks to develop wherever his feelings take him. In the collection “Assembly No.16” he sent down the Kaufhof Jansdorf runway Thursday, his intricately folded, draped, simply wrapped or chain-linked-together pieces had a surprising dose of both Zouave and Puss in Boots swagger. Feeling more cooperative than ever, the boots came courtesy of alternative Berlin footwear house Trippen, and the chain links from Berlin jewelry designer Sabrina Dehoff. Sontag also incorporated an intricate brocade and a floral print or embroidered motif in his normally solid lush fabric lineup. He moreover introduced structured triangle sleeves, and even went slightly ath-leisure with slouchy gym gray jersey pants and dresses. However, it was often the simplest pieces that wowed with a slow motion effect, like the black satin throw-over halter dress that shone in the front, the fabric twisted to its matte side in back.