Asymmetry, patches and pieces, raw borders and a seemingly haphazard fabric mix have long been tools of the trade for fashion collage specialist Vladimir Karaleev. And while olive satin, blue and white maxiplaid and gray textured twill, or nubbed russet and black herringbone, quilted navy nylon, a slubbed gray cotton blend plus navy wool rib may sound like sufficiently offbeat combinations — to say nothing of odd folds, varying lengths, purposely askew closures and bomber jacket cuff ribbing popping up in the middle of tops and jackets — Karaleev’s men’s and women’s composites had a new grace and balance. “Before, you weren’t allowed to use this fabric for day, or that for sport, and then everything was OK and things got a little messy. It was hard for people to make sense of it all, and I personally wanted a stronger sense of composition,” the designer commented after the show. It worked like a charm, as Karaleev refined his looks without losing the edge.