The crackle and rustle of crunchy foils and plastic textiles was like a backing track to much of the work by the 16 M.A. students from Central Saint Martins who took part in a group runway show on Friday.
Among the highlights were looks by Amir Khorasany, Robert Sanders and Peter Movrin, whose joyfully showy pieces came in fuchsia, silver or gold foil.
Gabriele Lukas’ demure collection of modest knitwear silhouettes stood out as a moment of serenity in a storm of color, complicated textures and conceptual silhouettes. Her lineup of pleated midiskirts, pretty blouses and a bookish blazer had an old-fashioned collegiate appeal, and earned her the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award.
Lukas shared the accolades with textiles major Stefan Cooke, who presented an innovative lineup of treated fabrics. Jackets were woven from strips of cloth while trompe l’oeil trousers were printed with that same weave on pants made from wide strips of elastic.
Among the other women’s wear highlights were Tom Guy’s silk moiré strapless dresses in candy-floss colors that had playfully bouffant tulle Watteau skirts. They were embellished with embroidery and crystals.
As in recent seasons, the men’s wear lineups stood out for their polished execution. Particularly noteworthy was Joshua Walters’ disciplined take on men’s staples, like the khaki trench. His had a wide belt that wrapped inside and outside the coat.
Li Gong showed an expert eye for color in his Sixties-inspired narrow silhouettes. He teamed a cadmium yellow turtleneck with a forest green cropped jacket and matching pants. The latter had sky blue and peach stripes curving around the very narrow legs.