David Koma, a Georgian by birth, was in a combative mood for fall, as he took cues from the chokha, a centuries-old “warrior dress” worn by Caucasian men from his home country, he informed reporters backstage.
But don’t get fooled by the belligerent theme. It wouldn’t be a Koma show if that didn’t translate into a volley of body-con numbers destined for the closets of those high-powered vixens who naturally gravitate toward his high-energy collections.
Deep V-lines, bare shoulders and sinuous silhouettes were at the forefront here. Koma embellished them with grosgrain ribbons, metal tubes and in lieu of real-life ammo, plexiglass ornaments, which imbued the dresses — as well as some slim-cut suits — with a distinctly graphic, almost futuristic aesthetic.
The warrior references were at loggerheads with a series of floral camouflage numbers done in metallic macramé and lace, which looked labor-intensive but did not offer any fresh visual input.
Where Koma surprised most, however, was in his daywear, an admittedly rare sighting at his evening-focused shows. Among the highlights were long, paneled military coats and austere leather minis done up with cozy Mongolian muff hemlines. They looked both chic and sassy.