Gareth Pugh is not happy with the state of the world, and his collection riffed on anarchy, extremism, intolerance, bigotry and global political chaos. In Pugh’s disciplined hands these nefarious notions translated into a powerful lineup.
Inspired by Liliana Cavani’s cult 1974 film “The Night Porter,” Pugh sent out a cast of lethal heroines played by friends including Erin O’Connor and London club scene legend Scarlett Cannon, who wore elegantly architectural clothes to face what the designer described as the world’s “toxic masculinity.”
There was a toughness in the sharply tailored lines of double-breasted coats and a fluid leather trench. In one dramatic look, a big faux-fur coat was captured and clamped to the body by a little leather gilet, exaggerating the volume over arms and hips.
The long lean lines on an Edwardian woman’s reading habit were echoed in a floor-length double-breasted coat with molded hips, while Pugh’s take on screen-siren glamour was seen in a backless halter gown topped with a bulbous collar embellished with three-dimensional ruffles.
Pugh also took Bob Fosse’s 1972 film, “Cabaret,” which is set in Berlin between the two world wars, as inspiration. The sequinned numbers that Liza Minnelli wore shone through in the sheer black gown, dotted with shimmering embellishments, that added a dose of feminine glamour to Pugh’s impressive lineup.