Isa Arfen designer Serafina Sama focused on femininity and disguise, looking to Inge Morath’s images of Saul Steinberg’s masks and referencing Joan Riviere’s essay “Womanliness as Masquerade.”

“I was thinking about the idea of identity, disguise and the different masks and faces — both real and metaphorical — that we put on to project an image of ourselves,” said Sama. “I was fascinated by the personas that people cultivate through their clothing, hairstyle, makeup, posture, mannerisms — exaggerated femininity.”

Sama explored the feminine identity with a range of sophisticated dresses, outerwear and separates with bold details and embellishments — and a bit of whimsy. She cast a graphic diamond pattern onto an asymmetric, tiered ruffle dress, while a cotton and PVC coat came with a brown faux-fur collar and belt. It was layered over a black tulle dress with a dot print.

A white, ruched off-the-shoulder shirt was paired with olive green tapered trousers edged in broderie anglaise. Broderie anglaise also snaked along the waist of black ankle-length trousers, which were worn with a cropped blue felted-wool knit sweater.