For its fall presentation, the MM6 Maison Margiela team wanted to highlight the reality of the work that goes into creating a collection. So they set up shop on Bond Street, re-creating elements from the Paris studio, right down to the pattern of tiles in the cutting room.
It was almost educational, with pattern cutters and machinists at work, a screen-printing team working on creating 100 limited-edition T-shirts that would be sold in the shop following the presentation, a stylist mixing looks and a photographer at work shooting the finished product for the look book on models who lounged together as they awaited their turn in front of the camera.
As for the clothes behind the spectacle, they were distinctly more grown-up than last season’s denim-heavy spectacle, and the better for it.
Tailored blazers were the big story; some had boning in the sleeves to add a Margiela twist to the silhouette, while others had removable elements for added versatility. One sharp gray option had a wide lapel, sleeves that curved at the back and iPhone charging cable for a belt — modern convenience as a styling device. It worked.
Detail was often focused on the back of looks, like with the great, deep purple coat that had a buckle fastened over the shoulder blades to gather folds of fabric. Other outerwear hits included the brown shearling coat with removable sleeves, the oversize shearling biker that came with an asymmetric satin skirt and the comforter coat inspired by the brand’s archive.
Denim was still a big part of the mix, popping up as a denim lab coat — see what they did there? — and in nice straight-ish-leg jeans in a dirty blue wash.