The spirit of goth, combined with a fascination with Eighties glam, was present in Palmer Harding’s fall show, an homage to the teenage years of Levi Palmer – one half of the design duo.

“I came out when I was 15, I never really liked the idea of being judged on my sexuality and I preferred to own the way that I was judged,” Palmer said about growing up in Texas “I decided if I was a goth, people would just instantly dislike me, so there was a sense of power there.”

Volume, draping and cascading hems, and the penchant for using fabric entirely unrelated to the goth movement was carried through also, with dusty rose, beige and pale blues in light cottons, wools and plush velvets taking hold.

A blue lichen striped off-the-shoulder dress, cut from a half-circle of fabric with sleeves added on, demonstrated the elegance of palmer//harding’s pattern-cutting. Shirts – the foundation the brand is built on – were versatile and effortlessly feminine, the gothic silhouette manifesting in an abundance of drapery and gathered sleeves. A black embroidered shirt, with a gaping cape-back and exaggerated sleeves stood out from the crowd of pastels.

“The world of Palmer Harding always centres around the shirts so we have split open the backs of jackets to show off the shirts,” Matthew Harding explained “We hit reset for resort 2016 and this is the first collection since then that we are really focussing on a story and it’s nice building something so personal.”