Roberta Einer’s charming collection saw the designer render her rich embellishment and detailed embroidery on a lineup of glamorously languid silhouettes. The Estonian-born, London-based designer had been captivated by the heritage of Lisbon on a trip to the Portuguese capital a couple of years ago, and imagined her muse taking a winter jaunt there, circa the Forties or Fifties.
“It’s quite a nostalgic collection for a change, and…in darker shades than normal, because I feel like my brand has become more grown up,” said Einer at her static presentation, where models lounged on a set dressed to resemble a stylish tennis court.
So while there was a sense of the opulence that the designer honed during her time working at Balmain, it was toned down, as if viewed through a sepia-tinged filter. One model wore a calf-length slipdress done in panels of matte sequins in contrasting colors, such as peach, mauve and khaki green, while a chocolate-colored blouse, paired with a sleek leather skirt, was embroidered with glittering flowers in pink, white and turquoise.
Einer also channeled the Art Deco motifs of Lisbon’s architecture, with a graphic, pink and black pattern on a Forties-esque pantsuit, while a hand-painted floral print in tones of teal, deep red and peach adorned a tiered shirtdress. It all added up to a chic take on a retro inspiration — with plenty of personality.