Set amidst a landscape of geometric boulders composed of black umbrellas, Katie Roberts-Wood focused her collection this season on turning the ordinary into something special and unique.
Weaving and quilting excess fabric onto relatively simplistic garments transformed them into an other-worldly uniform; the neutral palette of blacks and grays with pops of bright blue and reddish-brown drew attention to the details of the textile techniques, rather than to the complex patterns.
“I have this technique where I hole-punch into fabric and manipulate it by threading other pieces of fabric through it,” Roberts-Wood said. “I used that to create the soft, padded shapes. [They are] slightly abstract, but they look like a giant woven piece of fabric, even though the structure underneath is completely different.”
Wool coats in charcoal gray and navy were silhouetted with organza, while crew-neck tops had cutouts on the arms tied into bows. “We have never used wool as a material before, but it’s really amazing for the structural qualities of this collection.”
Roberts-Wood also collaborated with Japanese design studio SC Design Lab to create a digitally striped print fabric that added to the 3-D aspect of the collection. Ordinary blue-and-white-striped shirts had a brighter blue layer on top, creating a gingham effect that rippled in the light. One pair of culottes with dangling bows and a scalloped layer of transparent print was particularly intriguing.