Hannah Weiland took inspiration from some impressive women — from Mary, Queen of Scots to Louise Bourgeois — for her fall Shrimps collection. In fact, a photograph of Bourgeois wearing what Weiland described as “a black beanie and a big white faux-fur coat,” taken shortly before her death in 2010, directly inspired one of the looks, a black-and-white check coat with a fluffy, white faux-fur collar that was worn with a black beanie.

This arty, eccentric vibe permeated the collection. One cow-print faux-fur coat was worn with a calf-length tartan skirt and matching sneakers, with the model carrying a delicate, lattice-effect white handbag. And a black PVC smock dress was paired with a round-collared shirt, accessorized with heavy-soled, backless loafers that were covered in moss-colored faux fur, as if the model was planted in her own plot of Scottish earth.

But Weiland also wove in an element of the girlishness for which her label has become known. Among the ultrafeminine looks was a loose dress in pink organza, embroidered with Weiland’s sketches of outfits. And a collarless coat in peach faux-fur — worn with pearls — was fit for a princess rather than a strident queen.

It all added up to an appealing mix of sweetness and strength.

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