Simon Holloway’s fall collection for Agnona was very different from the one he showed a year ago in his debut as the house creative director. He shifted from a quiet, feminine display of Agnona’s fine fabrics to something much more fashion- and statement-driven. There’s nothing wrong with that, but the direction and mood felt at odds with the brand’s classic image.

He focused on Seventies sportswear, the era when Agnona became a design house and not just a fabric house. “I was thinking about American sportswear at that period,” Holloway said backstage. “At that period we have a picture of Halston on the roof of the fabric mill when he was there researching.” That said, Holloway pursued a far showier, bling-y idea of sportswear that occasionally flirted with garishness — for example, a multicolored fur vest dyed blue, yellow, orange, black and white, and a brown cashmere turtleneck with shoulders and sleeves traced in multicolored fur, sort of like a short Mohawk for the arms. Paired with ultra baggy, swaddling jeans that were tucked into knit socks and boots, the look felt radical for Agnona but also puzzling. Styling head-to-toe knits with fuzzy sneakers and boots wrapped with straps felt like a bid for something cool and edgy, but what was most appealing was the classic, forever fare, such as a camel cape, oversize ribbed knits and alpaca coats in rich shades of blue, crimson and brown.

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