After a three-year hiatus, designer Albino D’Amato is back on the Milan runway with his Albino Teodoro collection, which this season was inspired by some of his great loves — classic Japanese shapes, couture silhouettes and lots of tailoring. He said he wanted to take those ideas and add a dash of imperfection and some off-kilter proportions.
The result was a sophisticated lineup of sculptural shapes and pops of soft color. Standouts included the first exit — a cream coat with baby blue buttons (the blue, D’Amato said, reminded him of his school uniform) — and a white dress with a trapeze back in the same blue hue.
Sculpture came in the form of a dark suit with wide-leg trousers and a jacket adorned with a stiff, dramatic obilike sash and a black dress with great pouf sleeves — one black, one white — and a thick ruffle curling across the back. Big sleeves also bloomed on a rounded, tawny cape coat, while furs were big and cocooning: One two-tone chubby — in cream and coffee — will be a sweet treat on a cold day.
D’Amato, a Roman who began his career in Paris working with fashion houses including Ungaro, Guy Laroche, Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, said that while his background is in tailoring, his clients were asking for more feminine flair, and he delivered it with panache.