It felt like Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano chiseled their women out of a block of ice that’s been in cold storage since the Eighties. Straight from the boardroom, much of the collection was an ode to stone cold power dressing, with retro references abundant in broad, sharp-shouldered tailored jackets, some long, some cropped, in mannish black, gray, pinstripes and checks. On the bottom were asymmetrical skirts, high-waisted carrot shaped pants and even some biker shorts. The total look telegraphed something very retro-future. All of it was well-made and nicely cut, classic enough that it could thaw into something more current when styled with softer, more casual stuff.
The latter half of the show had rounder, warmer edges with similar silhouettes done in deep colors — magenta, blue and purple. A velvet off-the-shoulder dress worn over a starched button-down shirt will have a completely different attitude on its own. Likewise dresses done in steel and aluminum embroidery. Despite the hardware, the dresses had supple shape and movement.