The name of this collection was “Dissolve,” and backstage following the show, the Japanese designer said he was thinking about light diffusing through a crystal, and the many colors it creates. There certainly was a lot of color in this collection, including a breezy satin patchwork shirt — in deep purple and green — worn with a bright red skirt; a pair of green salopettes layered over an orange turtleneck, and a furry red and black coat punctuated with big white dots.

It was a big collection, heavy on outerwear, with no real pattern or logic. Color was a big theme, but so was raw-edged denim, as in (yet another) pair of salopettes that came with a matching, tucked-in denim jacket. There were bits of ath-leisure, too, in the form of a coral track suit with a thick silver stripe down the leg. There were piles of coats — long and short — done in shiny plum or olive technical fabrics, some quilted, others padded.

There was a handful of nice pieces here, including a silvery white bomber jacket with a big blue star on the back, and some long patchwork trenches. One was done in shades of camel and caramel, while a navy version was a mix of woven and quilted technical fabric. Alas, they were lost in the great chaos of color, texture and sheer volume of looks that made their appearance. Next time, Nakashima would do well to hire a stylist — and editor — to ensure his strongest pieces get their chance to shine.

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