Daniele Calcaterra’s debut runway show was a pleasant surprise for guests previously unfamiliar with his namesake brand.
A veteran of Italian labels like Piazza Sempione, the designer specializes in quiet luxury with an intellectual bent. His fall collection took its cues from the sculptures of Richard Serra. This was most evident in the color palette of rust, gray and black, and more subtly translated in the silhouettes combining straight and curved lines.
Ample coats came with extra-wide martingales that sometimes extended into panels dangling off the sides. These ranged from a crisp, black seamless trenchcoat to a white sleeveless coat trimmed with fur, all done in ultra-luxurious fabrics.
Calcaterra contrasted minimal tailoring and chunky ribbed knits with more feminine touches: oversized ruffles, trailing chiffon skirts and tactile details, like ostrich feathers on a navy short-sleeve top and matching skirt, or angora and mohair embellishments painstakingly applied to a cream raw silk column dress.
It comes as little surprise that the designer’s muse is Tilda Swinton. Certainly, these clothes will appeal to cerebral types. Calcaterra recently opened his first store in Salò on the banks of Lake Garda, and further retail expansion is in the cards.