Mario Dice didn’t stray too far from the archives in his second collection for Capucci, which was ostensibly inspired by Pop Art luminaries such as Roy Lichtenstein and James Rosenquist.
In fact, this showing felt more reverential than his debut last season, with ample use of the historic label’s signature 3-D pleating on everything from a long military-inspired coat to short evening dresses and a riding skirt.
The pop element came via the flash and color extending into day looks. Dice paired a black leather ruffle-front shirt with pink and black Lurex tweed pants and a khaki cotton coat. Meanwhile, a blouse with multicolored fil coupé polka dots came with purple pants and a black coat with a purple lining.
Despite this, there was something dusty about some of the color combinations and styles, like an Eighties-style pink trouser suit or an electric blue knit dress with a giant intarsia Capucci logo running down one side.
Founder Robert Capucci may still be alive, but the house doesn’t need to wear its heritage quite so overtly. Giving Dice a little more freedom to bring his own ideas to the table would probably be a good idea.